View Full Version : Chickens do not necessarily require heat
Fred's Fine Fowl
09-22-2008, 01:39 PM
Some first time chicken owners are concerned about their birds during winter months.
All chickens require, is to be out of direct drafts during colder temperatures. It is not necessary to add a heating system for mature chickens.
On the other hand, don't close up a coop so tight that moisture builds up in the air and freezes on the inside of windows, walls and overhead. An air exchange is essential to good health and for keeping litter dry.
One thing you may want however, is a heated water base. They are on thermostats and turn on only when temperatures drop. A metal drinker simply sits on top of the metal base and you won't be knocking out frozen water from their drinker several times a day.
Elevating your drinker to the height of the back of your birds, will help prevent them from kicking litter into it.
Some breeds are more cold hearty than others. Birds with large combs and waddles, may suffer frost bite if their space is drafty.
Have questions? I'll get you answers!
gardengirl72
09-22-2008, 01:42 PM
Thank you Fred. It is true, chickens are very hardy. Like City Birds. Is frostbite something to worry about if it happens? Other than being painful for the animal?
plantoneonme
09-22-2008, 03:34 PM
Fred, I read somewhere that chickens do not like drafts but that it is a good idea to vent one end of their house. They do not get a draft but the humid air can get out...is this true?
Kim
Fred's Fine Fowl
09-22-2008, 10:55 PM
There needs to be an air exchange, which is different than a draft.
Consider where the chickens are located and have filtered/screened openings well above them so they may keep the air in their feathers from being blown out. It's this air trapped in their fluff that keeps them warm, so any direct air blowing on them is bad.
No air exchange is equally bad. Chickens breath out lots of moisture through normal respiration and decomposing chicken droppings, hopefully mixed with pine shavings, must also vent off and dry out.
Roof vents, soffit vents and even small solar fans are enough.
RogueAPBT
09-24-2008, 01:28 PM
Fred, I've always waited for spring to get chicks for laying. If I did get some over the winter, what kind of temps would they need to be outside once they'd feathered out? I live in the pacific northwest, so our winter temps are usually in the 30s-40s, but can dip down to the low 20s occasionally. It rains rather than snows most of the winter, because of our low altitude/higher temps. I know adult birds can handle those temps if kept dry and sheltered, but what about young birds?
I'm only planning to have 4-6 layers, because any more eggs than that would be too much for us to use/share. So, not a big flock for creating body heat. I'm thinking RIR (my faves), and maybe barred rock.
I plan to use Patti's tractor system for warmer months, but am wondering if that will be warm enough for our very wet winters, and if a tarp is enough protection from the wind. In the past, I've always had a garage or wooden coop to close them up in during bad weather or overnight. I'd love to raise some chicks over winter and have eggs in spring...I just want to be sure I can keep the young birds healthy and warm enough. Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheryl
gardengirl72
09-25-2008, 08:08 AM
I have had great success with a simple tarp covering three sides of the tractor all winter long, and I get some pretty tough days in the winter. I think Fred will agree with me.
Fred's Fine Fowl
09-25-2008, 08:57 PM
If you have YouTube and a fairly quick internet connection, here is my very basic table top brooder for chicks in winter...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hL6mC_BrsDA
It's much easier than most people think and the birds feather out quickly, normally able to withstand your temperatures in around 6 weeks.
Right out of the incubator, chicks require 90-95 deg. F. to be available.
Observe their behavior and see if they huddle, or roam around freely.. if roaming, they are warm enough and you may consider lowering the temp.
Generally, the temperature is lowered 5 deg. F. per week until their brooder matches the outside temperature.
On warm sunny days, it's very good for them to be outside in the sun and on grass as this boosts their interest in roaming around when they are older. Not to mention that sun bathing is just plain good for them.
Damp, wet conditions, should be avoided... nothing makes a chick sick quicker than wet down.
When feathered out, as I said before, simply provide shelter from wind and drafts.
Sorry it took me so long to reply!
RogueAPBT
09-26-2008, 02:20 PM
Great video, Fred, thanks! I never thought of using a glass tank for a brooder, either...I actually have one of those. What size/wattage of bulb do you use with that set-up? Seems like a regular heat spot might be too hot for that..?
Patty, thanks for the feedback on how the chickens fare in the tractor over winter. Good to know that will work even in bad weather.
Cheryl
Fred's Fine Fowl
09-26-2008, 02:55 PM
Here is also where a glass confinement shines... so to speak :}
The top is screened and you can therefore put a towel over parts of it to regulate heat from your light bulb.
Use only bulbs in appropriate housings so they can't contact potentially flammable materials.
You can get away with a 40 watt bulb in a moderate sized tank. The goal is to have adequate heat in the immediate vacinity of the bulb, yet provide a cooler portion if chicks need to cool off... they will walk under the heat and pass-out.. topple over, sleep... only to perk up and dash away in a moment.
Your true guide is to put a thermometer (adhesive aquarium thermometers are great) at the height of the birds on the glass side near your light fixture.
Then raise or lower the light as appropriate... if, at maximum height, it's still too hot, then reduce your wattage.
Also, consider using a red or amber bulb, rather than white. Chicks are less stressed by these colors. The latest and greatest is blue lighting, but the bulbs are somewhat hard to find on the market.
Before you put chicks in the tank, install lighting and the cover to test out what the temperatures will be. Then make adjustments. It's not good to use chicks as test subjects (">
Glad to help!
Fred's Fine Fowl
09-26-2008, 03:04 PM
Frost bite is an issue... or can be
Birds with very large combs or waddles.. roosters pay attention {">
You can help these birds by rubbing vasoline on their combs when you expect very hard freezes.
***Side note.. live in a very cold climate? Consider breeds with peacombs, rose combs or smaller combs that are not so affected by cold.
Now, what will happen if there is a solid case of frost bite...
You'll notice that the affected area turns black... then it will turn white and badly affected parts will drop off. No treatment necessary, save if you want to put ointment on the area.
A badly frost bitten rooster may actually go sterile for a time.... fertility will return after healing.
So...
Vasoline.. good heat insulator for large combs
Not a health risk.
Parts that fall off... will NOT return.
Sorry Patti.. should have answered you sooner :}
RogueAPBT
09-27-2008, 11:27 PM
Fred, thanks for the reply regarding wattage. Saving on electricity would be a bonus, since the rates are expensive here. Our last batch of chicks was quite a few years ago, when we were living in a cabin in the woods. No electricity, so we put the chicks in a dog crate, and pointed it at the woodstove, so there was a warm end and a cooler end. All the chicks survived and did great, so it goes to show you don't need a fancy setup to do this, as long as the temperature is right. :)
Cheryl
Fred's Fine Fowl
09-28-2008, 08:25 PM
I love the idea of living in a cabin without electricity...
This gives me a chance to address those who may have a similar situation...
There are propane brooder setups and long ago, people has oil burners designed exclusively for brooding peeps... very interesting contraptions. My Granfather used them back in the day, up in Vermont. So, people without electricity, certainly can indeed brood chicks in winter.
When electricity made it through the Rural Electric Act and folks finally had the electric option... the Electric Hen was invented! Gas and oil systems were then stored in the barn or loft, never to be used again.
Thanks for your comment Cheryl!
RogueAPBT
09-29-2008, 12:38 AM
I forgot to say, before bed, we'd put a hot water bottle in, wrapped in a towel, so the chicks could snuggle up to it. The woodstove was loaded up and damped down for a long, slow burn overnight. The first week to ten days was a "tropical paradise" in that little cabin, with the stove cranked up a bit for the chicks, but thankfully, they don't need that much heat for long.
Re: the cabin, and living off the grid. I really loved it, but even living like that, you need SOME money, and with a growing boy to take care of, and work during the off season being scarce, I ended up moving us back to town, where I could get steady work. I do like the idea of "homesteading" in town or suburbia or where ever a person finds themselves. It's a bit subversive, and I kinda like that. ;)
Cheryl
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