Fred's Portable Coop Design "chicken tractor"

[Fred's Fine Fowl]

I hope you have a quick internet connection and can view this video I made

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qzMZ5U2bbo

I designed and constructed this small portable system, simply to demonstrate to others, how it can be done and things which should be included.

They are also great if you are separating stock for a breeding program, or even to isolate a chicken which may be a little under the weather.

In winter, this particular coop is short enough to be wheeled right into a normal garage door.

You could even use it to start chicks prior to releasing them to join an established flock.

The sky is the limit when designing a portable coop... every circumstance is slightly different, so one size doesn't necessarily fit all. There are portable units, which require a tractor to pull them along.

If you want to prep an area for planting, then simply park your chicken tractor there until everything is gone (void of greens) then move on.

No matter how many different greens you are growing, please remember that you will still need to feed your birds a prepared ration. Ranging in a chicken tractor or portable coop is not enough to provide all they need.

Enjoy!

Finally, I have prints for this portable coop: http://www.fredsfinefowl.com/portablecoopprints.html

[herb girl]

Fred, that is absolutely awesome!!!
I was looking for a good design for my serama/mix chickens and it looks like I've found it. You've done an excellent job on design.

Questions:

The roost part of the coop, How easy is it to clean out? Do you have an open bottom system for summer
for extra ventilation?

I'd like to see you actually move it. Some we've made are so heavy I've hurt my back. Wondering how much effort it takes to move something that size?

Serama's are much smaller than bantams, do you think I could get 7 or 8 in there?

[Fred's Fine Fowl]

The roosting/nest box area is not open on the bottom, there is a strut that runs right through the center.

All ventilation, aside from around the door openings, is through the top of the front and back walls... plenty of air movement and remember that during summer days, the hen door (pop-hole) is also open.

Yes, the tiny Serama chickens take up so little space that you certainly could keep quite a few more.. I go by roosting space when estimating capacity.

So glad you liked the design... in the DVD, I roll it in at the beginning of the segment. However, only adults can probably handle the moving process, or some strappy teen. Ground conditions also effect ease of movement... you can get it stuck in a hole easily, but then just pull back and continue in another direction.

Where you see 2x4 material used? I could have gotten away with 2x2's instead and this would siginificantly lighten the structure... but then wind can topple it easier...

I can't wait to see what you end up making for your birds!

[Sinfonian]

Very cool video! Great design and implementation. Though I'm a tad skeptical that it could handle a significant cross wind, I'll take your word for it. Thanks for sharing!

[Fred's Fine Fowl]

I'm very sorry... I never meant to suggest that one should present it broad side to the wind. Certainly it should be positioned so that prevailing winds would run down it's length, with the wheel end to the wind, a sheer wind, across it's side could definitely topple the system.

Some reasons the roof is arched as it is, is to stiffen it more, shed rain better and act on the wind less.

I would also consider, if a storm were on the horizon, putting this portable coop on the leeward side of a hedge, fence, building or something else which will help break the wind and reduce it's impact.

[maricybele]

Nice design. I know there are racoons in my area, what other precautions would one take besides a preditor monitor?

Thanks,

[Fred's Fine Fowl]

Well, I'd say good solid construction and if raccoons are a problem where you live, the latches should be "fiddle-proof"... raccoons can be large and very strong.

Any portable coop, should have a very secure roosting area to protect them from tiny predators like weasels and the rascally raccoons with their very strong and capable hand-like paws.

You may also consider a motion detector light? Though I haven't proven that to be effective. Raccoons will even kill and eat rabbits... very opportunistic eaters. This is why I don't endorse the practice of open bottom nest sections.

Just have a secure area with good latches and no screens that the critters can pry open.

[Cynthia]

cool coop! Very informative video too.

You are the only other person I know who uses those predator lights - I think they have really helped my garden - did not work with porcupines or armadillos, but nothing else has invaded.

[kinnisoj]

After losing my first flock of chickens to what we've figured out had to be a Fox I spent the better part of the spring makeing a "critter proof hen house". We bought 24 chick's and to make a long story short a full grown black bear took out 1 turkey and 3 hens in 2 diffrent attacks. I never figured the critter would/could just rip the door off.
After talking with the local Game Warden he talked me into installing a simple electric wire around the shed. 1st wire 4" high, 2nd wire 1' 3rd wire 2'-2.5' and 4th wire 3'-4'. My wife who loves these chickens with all her heart actully took out a old baby monitor and now she monitors them. You'd be suprised how often roosters crow at nite for no reason... But as of today no more attacks.
A small solar set up can be bought for I beleive under $40.

[Fred's Fine Fowl]

Here in NW PA, we have an abundance of Black Bear roaming through...

I've seen several electric wire set ups, even those directly wired (illegally) to household 110v current.

I've been fortunate here, never to have had a bear break-in, though I have seen their tracks within 150' of my most distant coop.

In the honey bee hive area, black bears seem to blunder right through charged lines to get what they want and have frustrated area bee keepers. One fellow I spoke with, hangs bacon on the newly placed electric fencing, to "educate" the bears... they quickly learn not to bite bacon and then just push through the fence with no predictable frequency. I've learned, aside from armor plating, a bear gets what a bear wants.

One thing that has helped with night predators... in my case anyway, have been the Nite-Guard flashing lights... as they are solar powered, they don't hinder any portability issues and require no wiring. You may place them directly on your portable pen/coop and freak out raccoons, possom, owls, coyotes and even the angsty hungry bear. I also noticed a dip in deer forage damage in areas where the lights were placed. Periodically, the blinking lights must be re-located to remain effective.

If one is set on using solar powered electric fencing, check out poultry netting... it goes up easily and comes down simply.. and can serve as a day/night protected paddock for your rangers... however, they do not protect from airborne predators.

Without the night guard lights, my portable coop would have been a bear toy long ago. =<';'>=

Here is a link to a poultry fence supplier where you may learn more about electric fencing if you elect to go that route:

http://www.premier1supplies.com/fencing.php?species_id=6

This next link is regarding portable coop design and the nite-guard use:

http://www.fredsfinefowl.com/portablechickencoop.html

Hoping all your chickens, ducks and guineas are safe!
Fred

[plantoneonme]

I like the idea of the bacon on the hotwire (although thankfully no bears in our city). When I was growing up and lived on the farm with my grandparents, we had a problem with bears. Bears coats are so thick that they could walk right through the hotwire and not even feel it. I remember my grandfather placing something on the hotwire to get the bears to touch it...may have been bacon but that was a LONG time ago.

Kim

[Kanthaka]

Hi Fred! Can you tell me the approximate costs for building materials for the portable coop? It's such a great design. I first saw it in the pictures that your Vo-Tech student brought to Whole Foods then in your DVD. Do you need to be a carpenter or very experienced to build it? And was I mistaken that some already built ones are available?
My chickens currently live happily in a pre-fab coop I bought on Ebay. Kind of like an Ikea chicken coop! it's very nice and serves it's purpose for three chickens but I'm afraid they will soon outgrow it.
Thanks!
Karen from the Poultry Underground

[Fred's Fine Fowl]

Hi Karen...

Always nice to hear from the "underground (:>

The young man is named Matt Marino and he builds them to order... can't give you a price, but I think his contact info was on the sheet they handed out at the class? If you can't find it, please e-mail me: Fred@FredsFineFowl.com and I'll forward your e-mail questions to him directly.

As for cost, that portable chicken tractor can be built with all new materials for under $300.00 The one in the video was sold to a Erie County Resident and he's been using it with great success.

I would put the skill level at intermediate... not actually a first time carpenter's project I'm thinking. There are some rabbit joints and various let-ins, not to mention cutting a radius on the top thwarts for that bowed roof material. But someone with reasonable skills and tools could pull it off in a weekend.

The thing which took the most time for me, was the stain/sealer/finisher... three coats, three days....

I hope you build one, or can get in touch with Matt. He works for Lords now and was promoted because of that particular CAD design... sweet! Who knew a chicken coop design could get the attention of upper management?!

Best of luck!

Fred

www.FredsFineFowl.com