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Refinishing Furniture the Sustainable Way

Building a Raised Bed in an Urban Setting

Bantam Chicks - Black Gold





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Refinishing Furniture the Sustainable Way

One of my “side hobbies” is furniture refinishing. Salvaging old furniture is a creative way to recycle and reuse things. I am by no means restoring the furniture, but I am giving old stuff new life. Not only is fun for me, but I know that by recycling things, I’m doing a little something to help protect the environment.

The key to refinishing furniture for me is using Shellac. It is by and far, one of my favorite products. It is all natural and is made from the secretions of insects, mixed with ethanol and a renewable resource. Its’ use has been known for millennia. Examples have been found in Pharo’s Tombs in ancient Egypt. Shellac comes in a clear or amber tint in a gloss or a high gloss. Shellac is also non toxic and the eco-friendly product to use if you are trying to eliminate the use of toxic household and construction materials.

In the video and photos, you can see the process for bringing back some pieces of furniture for use in my indoor garden. The table is probably thirty to forty years old and had a laminate stuck to it for decades. I am using the table as the base for my shelves in the indoor garden. By raising the levels of the shelves, more of the actual shelf space is exposed to natural sun light. I also have a couple of solid wood school house kids chairs, which have a dual purpose as seating and step stools for easy access to the top shelves.

I peeled away the laminate and sanded it down. Sanding first with a coarse sand paper and then, medium, and lastly with fine sand paper. It is important to always sand with the grain of the wood. After sanding it down, I wipe the surface with a wet paper towel and let it dry. Then it’s on to the shellac. With a paint brush, I coat the surfaces as thickly and evenly as possible allow it to dry and then lightly sand it with fine grit sand paper. Shellac dries incredibly quickly, becoming hard and water tight in under an hour. Remember to use shellac in a well ventilated area as the ethanol evaporates, and breathe some new life into furniture for your self.


Building a Raised Bed

Building a Raised Bed is the first step towards living an Urban Sustainable Lifestyle. There are many different ways and materials you can choose to build your raised bed. Personally I use regular old dimensional lumber. There are advantages and disadvantages to this material. The advantages are that it is relatively inexpensive, easy to cut and screw together. The disadvantages are that because the lumber is in contact with the soil, will eventually rot away. If I get seven years out of a bed then I am happy. I extend the life of my beds by painting them with milk paint after they have been outside for one year. I have also treated some lumber with linseed oil with pretty decent results.

Never use pressure treated wood. It has been chemically treated and those chemicals can leach out into your soil and poison you slowly. I am dying to try recycled plastic lumber for my beds at some point, recycled plastic lumber, although more expensive it can last virtually forever.

The tools you will need are a Screw gun and a saw. I personally get the people at the home supply store to precut my lumber for me, it is easier to transport that way and saves me lots of time. The raised beds I build are based on four foot beds and eight foot beds; this is also the general standard for lumber. Lumber comes in 8, 10, and 12' + lengths, so this allows less cutting, which means less waste. I use 2x10x8' lumber for the construction of my raised beds. To build one 4x4 raised bed I buy four pieces of 8' lumber and have the store cut them into 8-4’ pieces. They’re now lighter and you’ll be able to transport them home easily in your car. Don’t forget to buy 4”galvanized screws to assemble the raised beds. If you’ll be rotating and housing chickens or rabbits in them, make sure you fasten galvanized wire to the bottom with screws and washers so your chickens will be safe from predators.

Each four foot bed requires about 32 cubic feet of soil. Today you can buy highly enriched organic soil at your garden center, but I prefer to make my own with my livestock and other compostable materials that would normally be hauled away. Check out the video for more information, and get on building that raised bed.

















Building a Chicken Tractor

First of all, I am not a carpenter, so I have done my best to make this is a simple as possible.

Materials-You will probably have left over wood, but only if you don't mess up. After a dozen of these I still mess up sometimes.
10-8'--2x3 building grade NON pressure treated lumber
1-bundle of --8'Strapping
2 hinges per door
1 latch hook per door
1 Reflective tarp used silver side up
4' wide x 25'long -1/2" Hardware cloth, 19mil galvanized metal mesh wire
2' wide x 25'long-1/2" Hardware cloth, 19mil galvanized metal mesh wire
3" screws
2" screws
1" screws
Screw gun
50+ 1" washers


Measure the inside of your raised bed that you are going to put the chicken tractor in. You want your chicken tractor to fit snugly in the bed. Not on top. In the video you will see that I have pieces of 2x4 wood attached 1inch below the top of the raised bed. The cage will rest on top of the wood. All of my raised beds are standard sizes, so the cage is inter changeable. Most beds are not square, so your measurements may not be equal so you want to use the smaller measurements going forward.

You are basically making a Frame and then covering the top and sides with galvanized wire. Next you need to cut all of the pieces for the frame. The version I make in the video is an ultra light weight version. The more wood you use or the thicker the wood you use the heavier it will be. There are many ways to build a tractor, but this one is so light weight most adults and even strong teens may be able to move it.

The width of my Raised bed is 44 & ¼" and the length is 93".

My over all height is 24inches. The same measurement as the galvanized wire.

I start off by Cutting 7 pieces of 2x3 at 41 &1/4". -I get this measurement by subtracting 3" to the over all length. This piece will be in between the two pieces of 2x 3 not on top.

Then I cut 9 pieces of 2x3 at 24'-Pre Drill the pieces all the way through the wood with 2 holes evenly spaced next to each other on the top for all of them. Pre Drill holes the same way on the bottom of 4 pieces of wood .

I cut 6 pieces of strapping 93" which is the over all length.-If this measurement is wrong the cage will not fit.

I cut 2 pieces at 21'' for the doorway on the front of the cage.

I am now ready to assemble the frame. I still will have to cut the side door way pieces and the doors.

In the video I lay all of the pieces out on the ground first.

Then I begin assembling each frame starting with the back piece. The side pieces are on the outside and pre drilled on the top & bottom. I attach one 41x1/4" piece of wood in between two pieces of 24" 2x3 wood across the top and bottom. The next one gets assembled with one piece of wood across the top and one about 2/3 of the way down for a roost (pre drill before attaching). The next one is just 2 pieces for the sides and one across the top. The last one to assemble is the front and there is a top and bottom and 2 sides. Then I evenly place the 2 pieces of 21" wood for the front doorway.

Before I attach the top strapping I draw out where I want to attach the middle frames and pre drill. I prop up each frame and lay a piece of pre cut strapping across the top edge on one side and attach the front and back frames. Then I do the middle pieces. Then I attach the next piece of strapping the same way.

You should be able to easily and safely flip the frame like I do in the video. Now I attach strapping along the bottom, just like I did on the top. Add any other doorways you would want now. The Light weight frame is now complete and it is time to skin the frame with wire. It is a good idea to pop the frame into the raised bed at this point, just to make sure it fits. Be sure to check that there will be enough space for the wire.

I'm using the 2ft wire and starting to wrap the wire at the back corner. I am using 1" wide washers that have the right size hole for the screws I'm using (1/4" thick). The washers make the wire attach flush to the Frame very well. Now I'm using 1" long nails with the washers. You don't want to have any part of the screw go thru the wood. As I go around the frame with the wire I make it as tight as possible.

Next I use the 4' wire across the top and fasten it in the same way using the washers. The wire is larger than the top of the frame so I flush it even to one side so I don't have to cut as much off. If you don't want to cut the wire you can fold it over and fasten the edge to the wood.

For the doors I cut out the wire between the doorways and set it aside to use on the actual doors. I measure the doorways and cut the wood to make a door way. Now I assemble the door frames, add the wire, hinges, and latch. Next I attach the door to the tractor making sure that it is level. I usually make it open out.

Next I cover the top with the tarp. I flush it to one edge with the reflective side up and fasten it down so it doesn't move and cut off the excess. The last thing left is to put more pieces of strapping around the top edge on top of the tarp.

The light weight Chicken tractor is now done.

Disclaimer: Please do not use my measurements. You will need to measure the inside of your raised bed and go and use your own measurements from there. These are just my plans for your review. This is an ultra light weight cage that most people with average strength can move on their own. The more wood you use and the thicker the wood you use the heavier it will be. Watch the videos with this document and refer to the images I have provided.


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